It aims to help us develop both personally and professionally and is targeted at companies and individuals. Originally proposed by William Moulton Marston in the 1920s, the DISC tool has been developed to give meaning to the ways we act and react to certain circumstances. If you’ve taken a DISC personality test, you’ll already know that this assessment tool is designed to evaluate different behavioural types. If you use these links to buy something, we may earn a commission. I suspect that your outer left disc pad was worn far more than any of the others.This article contains affiliate links. They should have replaced both rotors, not just one. The fact that the left rotor had more wear than the right should have alerted them to the stuck bushings (pins). I am concerned about the competence of the shop you are using. Bushings are the term that Toyota uses, most mechanics refer to them as caliper pins. The simple fix is to remove the bushings and lubricate them with a high temp synthetic or silicone grease. A bushing that is not free to move can hold the outer pad against the rotor with just a little pressure, just enough to heat up the rotor more and wear out the outer pad quicker. The forces to draw the outer pad in are far greater when the brake is applied than the forces that move the pad back out when the brake is released. When you release, the piston retracts a little and the both the inner and outer pads move slightly away from the rotor. The the additional pressure pulls the outer pad in. When you step on the pedal, brake fluid pushes the piston out and that pushes the inner brake pad out to the rotor. You have a piston on one side of the caliper only. The most common cause of your condition is the caliper bushings are sticking. When you take your foot off the pedal, the hydraulic pressure goes away, and so the caliper opens again. To directly answer your question, the brakes get applied when brake fluid is forced into the caliper by you pressing on the brake pedal. It’s also possible that the flex line that hooks in to the caliper has collapsed internally with the same result. It’s possible you had gunk built up in your brake lines, and bleeding the lines squeezed that gunk into the caliper where it’s now blocking fluid from exiting the caliper when you take your foot off the brake pedal. Excessive wear on one side indicates that side is being applied when the other side isn’t, which generally only happens when your caliper is stuck. Brakes should wear pretty evenly if everything’s working right. But I do think the shop should have checked to be sure the caliper wasn’t sticking when they saw the clue that your left brake was much more worn down than the right brake. Note that when I say the shop isn’t at at fault for that, I mean that the shop didn’t break your caliper and you will need to pay for a new one. If the shop did replace the caliper, then you probably got unlucky and got a bad replacement caliper, and the shop will almost certainly replace it again for you at no charge. If the shop didn’t replace the caliper, then they aren’t at fault for that, but it does need to be addressed. However, it’s very easy to say that one brake should not be almost twice as hot as the same brake on the other side. It’s hard to say whether individual brake temps are normal because they depend entirely on how much braking you do, how hard you brake, how heavy the vehicle is, etc. What causes the brakes to retract when I lift my foot off the brake pedal? Could there still be something wrong with that part of the brake system? No, I am not leaving my foot on the brake pedal. This car is a manual so I know how to slow down by upshifting. The emergency brake is hand operated, but does it operate the drums in the rear or the disks upfrront? Please note, I am near Phoenix, and when we measured the temps the air temp was easily over 105F. The right front disk 250F and the right front wheel measured 225F. The left front disc measured 400F, the left front wheel 375F. I went by a friends house about 30 minutes away, and he brought out an infrared spot thermometer. Since then, I am drive about 30 to 40 minutes commute each way and I am still smelling hot brakes. Before the repair, I had noticed a very small (controllable) shimmy in the steering wheel at 40mph and at 60mph. The rotors had excessive wear on them, the right front rotors were fine. I just had a brake job done last week on my 99 Camry, the left front rotors were replaced, the disk was “recut”, and a brake system was flushed.
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